Naoshima (直島) is a place that’s been on my bucket list for a long time. And last May, I finally checked off that tick box when I visited Japan again for a whirlwind trip! If you’re not aware, Naoshima is one of many islands in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, and it’s basically a giant playground for art lovers. Combined with the relaxed seaside vibes, charming neighbourhoods and crystal blue water there, what’s not to love?
Admittedly, I didn’t plan very well when it came to this particular solo trip. I ended up day tripping from my accomodation in Osaka, and while the journey was worthwhile it was sooo long… not to mention, I got there too late and barely had time to see everything! 🥲
Upon arriving I decided to explore the Art House Project, which is very fun but also very time consuming. Through this initiative, artists have taken empty houses scattered around the neighbourhood and repurposed them into works of art, and it’s actually like a little scavenger hunt! The staff at the tourist centre give you mini guides so you can keep track of each house’s opening times, and visit during your allocated slot.
My favourite had to be Kadoya, which houses the artwork Sea of Time ’98 by Tatsuo Miyajima. The whole room was full of water with ominous blinking numbers submerged below the surface, reminiscent of a ticking time bomb. Each counter displays the number 1 to 9 in order, with the speed of each one decided by the island residents.
Other things I loved included the Ando Museum, which looks like a regular residence from the outside. Even if you’re not familiar with Tadao Ando, you’ve probably seen his famous architectural designs incorporating smooth, exposed concrete. This building was no exception, featuring a clever design and skylight to let in the sunshine while staying cool. It even had an underground meditation chamber, only accessible via a mysterious staircase.
This unassuming building is actually an artwork called Backside of the Moon by James Turrell, best known for his experimentation with light in all its forms. If you manage to get a spot, I highly recommend this one! I won’t spoil the experience, but you enter in groups and the host guides you through the artwork. Funnily enough, out of all the strangers I could’ve been grouped with on this random island in Japan, it just so happened that everyone else was also Australian. What are the chances?!
Go’o Shrine by Hiroshi Sugimoto is another artwork you look at in groups, and I ended up going with the cutest Japanese family. From the outside you can only see a crystal clear staircase, but there’s actually a small opening to see it from the other side. Beware though! This one’s not for you if you’re claustrophobic, or not a fan of wedging yourself between narrow rocks.
Of course, I couldn’t leave without paying a visit to Yayoi Kusama’s giant Yellow Pumpkin! Having only seen it in pictures for so long, being in the pumpkin’s presence and getting the chance to actually touch it was surreal. A few years ago the same pumpkin tragically got blown away and flung around on the rocks when a typhoon hit Naoshima (the sculpture’s hollow, after all!) so I was glad to see it in all its sunny glory once again.
A hot tip if you ever visit Naoshima – eat beforehand!! I’m sure there are restaurants somewhere on the island but I didn’t see one during my entire time there. One thing I did see was ice cream and plenty of it, so I survived on that. I was a big fan of this warabimochi soft serve I got from Mino, a tiny shop run by an elderly couple.
There was so much more I wanted to see during my time on Naoshima, but luck just wasn’t on my side! Things like the Benessee House Museum were closed, plus without a rental bike it was so hard to navigate the island properly. Nonetheless, I enjoyed my time there so much. The art, the laidback atmosphere, the seaside views… there’s so much to soak up, and I’ll definitely be back!
